Third Wave BBQ

This is Third Wave's Perth outpost, carrying the same patient craft across the country to Canning Highway in Applecross. Beef brisket is the headline, smoked over hickory for twelve to sixteen hours until it gives with a nudge — Texas method, Western Australia address.

Around it sits a tour of American barbecue: dry-rubbed pork ribs in the Southern style, pulled pork, and the kitchen's flavor-forward, Kansas City-leaning house rubs. Maple and applewood do the quieter work behind the beef's hickory.

The showstopper travels too — the Thor's Hammer, a colossal smoked beef shank on the bone, is as much spectacle as supper. It is barbecue that rewards an unhurried table and a real appetite.