Third Wave BBQ

On Riversdale Road in Hawthorn East, Third Wave keeps to the long game. The brisket is the argument: hickory smoke, twelve to sixteen hours, a bark you can hear crack — Texas technique, cooked in Melbourne's east.

From there the menu ranges wide. Pork ribs come dressed in a dry Southern rub, pulled pork alongside, and the house blends run flavor-forward and layered, the Kansas City way, with maple and applewood shading the fire.

The Thor's Hammer is the flourish — a giant smoked beef shank on the bone, theater and dinner in one. Come with time on your hands; this is meat cooked to its own schedule, not yours.