On the Stall, and the Virtue of Waiting
A missive on the most frustrating hours in barbecue — and why the best pitmasters have made peace with them.
The stall is a test of faith
Somewhere around 150°F, a brisket stops climbing. The moisture on its surface evaporates as fast as the pit adds heat, and the thermometer sits still for hours. Newcomers panic. Veterans pour another coffee.
Wrap, or ride it out
The Texas crutch — foil or butcher paper — pushes through the stall by trapping moisture. Purists ride it out for a firmer bark. There's no wrong answer, only the one your fire and your patience agree on.
The wider lesson
Barbecue rewards the cook who can wait. It's the rare craft where doing less, for longer, is the whole secret. Maybe that's why it feels like more than dinner.
— The BBQ Atlas
Researched with AI assistance and reviewed by our editors before publishing.